India Vik, Liz Gallois (2006)

I am forever in search of writing by non-Indians about India that is unpredictable. By that I mean non-exoticising, non-romanticising, and not based around the very stale notion of “finding oneself” in that country. An absence of ashrams and yoga also helps, but I wouldn’t be opposed to them per se if the author managed to breathe new life into their portrayal. It must be an extraordinarily difficult thing for a writer to achieve, because so far I have found very few examples- Desert Places by Robin Davis (a book that I love so much that it would require an entire article, not just a blog review) and, arguably, the work of William Dalrymple. India Vik falls short and is, ultimately, as predictable as all that which I try to avoid. I should have suspected this from the first line of the blurb on the back: “Travel to India and be changed forever.” I think the antique Ganesh idol should have given it away, too!

The interconnected short stories in India Vik largely centre on Australian travellers in India. The remaining ones concern Indian characters in Australia, so there is some cross-cultural dialogue going on here. The Australians’ impressions of India are part of the focus, but there is more weight put on the various characters’ relationships with each other, and how their time in India impacts on this. For instance, there is the Honeymooning couple who spend more and more days exploring India alone, without the spouse in tow, as they are forced to realise that they want different things in life: their different approaches to travel in India is just symbolic of something larger. There is the mother, father, adult son and new daughter-in-law who travel to India together to get to know each other, but end up becoming completely estranged after the holiday goes horribly wrong. There is the young backpacker who left his girlfriend behind in Melbourne in order to “find himself” in India, only to find a gay love affair with a charming Frenchman. And, predictably, there is the solo female traveller who finds herself attracted to the carpet-seller whom she dubs Aladdin, and has a brief fling with him. The relationship vignettes were the strength of India Vik, accurately capturing not only the minutiae of individuals’ interactions, but the particular ways in which travel and being taken out of one’s comfort zone can strain these. You know, when you get really tired of your friend always wanting to go shopping when you’d rather go to a museum; or irritated by the way your father questions whether every morsel is safe to eat; or even just when you really admire the way your partner handled that difficult situation.

But, I have to admit I am not a fan of the short story, in general. The epic novel is more my thing, as the short story tends to leave too much to the imagination that I actually want the writer to provide. Liz Gallois’ writing was certainly minimalist, and dissatisfyingly open-ended. Nevertheless, if one is a fan of the short story, her sparse style has a certain charm. But I’m afraid I couldn’t get past some of the content. In the story “Box Wallah”, a family is staying in Kolkata:

“The problem was leaving the jasmine scented garden. The street waited, with its beggars, young mothers and a baby wrapped in the corner of the sari, legless boys on skateboards and taxi drivers soliciting our custom, ‘Come, I take you City of Joy’–we knew these were the worst slums in Kolkata–how voyeuristic were we expected to be? We tried to do all the proper visits, Victoria Memorial, the Nehru Children’s Museum, Tagore House. Here’s not the place to recount our audience with Mother Teresa.” (p. 30)

They did not take to Kolkata. I am not suggesting that Gallois is synonymous with her characters (she might love Kolkata, I don’t know) but does the world really need another such description of a city already blighted by a bad reputation? There is nothing fresh here. It would take much more skill to describe a place with a preceding reputation in fresh terms than to rehash the old. But perhaps Gallois had no intention of providing fresh eyes with which to view the city. If that is so, then I should not be critiquing this book, I should just be accepting that it was not the book for me.

The following types of description are not uncommon in India Vik, either:

“I own to a personal leaning towards Indians with dark skins, maybe I feel they are the true India, but I didn’t mind that Romesh had a light complexion as no one could have been more authentic than Romesh.” (p. 32)

Again, without wishing to conflate Gallois with her characters, I was still struck by the pure stupidity of such a description. I think the narrator of this story was meant to be slightly unsympathetic, but this is where the minimalism fails: if one, as a writer, is to create these types of thoughts in one’s characters, surely you wouldn’t want there to be any ambiguity surrounding whose thoughts they really are?

India Vik would probably appeal to an armchair traveller with a taste for literary travel fiction with no intention of ever going to India. But I found its attempts at stylishness dissatisfying and, well, just plain exoticising.

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Elen

Travel writer at www.wildernessmetropolis.com. Editor, writer, traveller, reader, literary critic.

2 thoughts on “India Vik, Liz Gallois (2006)”

  1. Why do you think so many foreigners come to India to “find themselves”? And I don’t mean that in a negative sense, I am genuinely interested. I have lived in various countries in Europe and I am from India. I don’t think life in Europe is particularly easy, I would assume it to be true for US and Canada as well. The middle class Indians also have the same hopes and dreams as any middle class Americans or European, of course their financial ability might be different in absolute terms but in purchasing power parity, they can be considered to be the same. But I don’t read about Indians going abroad and writing books about “finding themselves”. I do read about Indians getting PhDs or founding software firms and so on but never about “finding themselves”. Perhaps Indian middle class folks are not very lost by nature, are very confident of themselves or they have different priorities in life, had to be one, or maybe some other explanation that I haven’t thought about. But there are innumerable number of books of generally white American, British, Australian or European writing about their “finding themselves” trips to India. However, Arabs, Chinese, Africans or south east Asians don’t seem have this need to find themselves, at least not in India. There is also a customary picture or description of a “cow-in-the-road” incident and a Ganesha, invariably. But somehow by the end they all find themselves, find love or goes back home and make billions selling iphones. Some reflections might be interesting.

    1. Thanks for your comment. I’m sure there’s many layers to it, but my feeling is that the westerner-going-to-India-to-find-themselves plot has become a sub-genre, and has been that way for some time, meaning that there is a ready market for these types of books. In reality I think people often do travel, no matter where they come from or where they are going, to discover something about themselves, or to gain strength and resilience, or a better life, or whatever. I don’t think this has much to do with westerners being more inherently “lost” than Indians, or Indians being more confident, although I’m sure there would be many individual instances of this. My observations, from my reading, is that western markets (and I must point out that I dislike the homogenisation of the idea of the west, itself) are still very fixated on exoticism and orientalism, and the type of finding-oneself books that Liz Gallois’ “India Vik” is an example of fits into a marketable niche. They are my thoughts, anyway.

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